What's on your mind before you go?

Murmansk winters are usually −10 to −20°C, sometimes colder; aurora hunting means standing outside for hours at night, and the sea wind at Teriberka feels much colder.

• Three layers: a thermal base layer (merino or thermal wear, not cotton); a fleece or thick wool mid-layer; a heavy windproof down jacket plus ski or windproof trousers.
• Head and face: a beanie that covers your ears and a neck gaiter.
• Hands: thin liner gloves (for using your phone) under thick gloves or mittens.
• Feet: thick wool socks (bring a spare pair) and grippy, high-cut snow boots.
• Also bring: heat packs, a flask of something warm and a power bank (batteries drain fast in the cold).
• Many aurora and husky tours lend or rent thermal suits; ask when booking.

Gear bought in a warm country may not be warm enough for the Arctic; you can top up in Moscow or rent in Murmansk.