The autumn colours move from north to south: mountains and the north in October, around Tokyo in November, and Kyoto, Osaka and Kyushu in December.
- October: Hokkaido, Tohoku and the Chubu mountains. Early October: Daisetsuzan, Kurodake. Mid-October: Jozankei Onsen, Noboribetsu, Kamikochi, the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route. Late October: Nikko (Lake Chuzenji), Aomori. Expect 10–15°C, cheaper hotels and flights than November and fewer crowds, but harder travel relying on mountain buses or the JR Pass.
- November: the first half in the Fuji Five Lakes (Oshino Hakkai, Lake Kawaguchiko), Karuizawa and Nikko's temples; the second half in central Tokyo, forecast to peak around 29 November. Expect 12–18°C and dry weather, but big crowds: hotels near Shinjuku or Tokyo Station can cost 2–3 times more, and famous restaurants have 1–2 hour queues.
- December: Kyoto and Osaka peak around 4–12 December; Hiroshima, Fukuoka and Kumamoto around 1–15 December. Hotels and flights get cheaper, but nights drop to 4–8°C, so bring good thermals. By now Tokyo and Hokkaido have lost their leaves.
- Apply for your visa at least 45 days ahead, as VFS and the consulate are overloaded in peak season.
Tip: plan 5–7 days moving from the highlands down (or the reverse) to be sure of 2–3 days of peak colour.